A Nana Test First: Zeppoli Earns the Perfect Score

A year ago last month, the inspiration for The Nana Test, my Italian grandmother, passed away. The Nana Test began as a simple and different way to grade Italian BYOBs not just on the quality of the meal, but on their ability to replicate the classic, Italian, family-style food experience that my Nana fostered.

Zeppoli's namesake dessert, as Zeppole = fried dough

Since her passing, The Nana Test has become much more than a gimmick on our blog. It's now an opportunity to find restaurants that can rekindle the great times we shared and the lessons she instilled in my family.

The Nana Test has seen its share of hits, but the perfect score seems to be an impossible ask. Do I need to temper my seemingly unrealistic expectations? Or can a 15 minute trip over the bridge to Collingswood, NJ, prove that a perfect score is possible?

Zeppoli, the intimate Collingswood BYOB that soared to legendary status in 2012 with a "Best New Restaurant" nomination by Bon Appetit, has been on our "must" list for years. It's only fitting that we finally visited right around the time of my Nana's anniversary.

The combination of perfectly-executed food, lively conversation with friends, free tastings and plenty of wine all led to thoughts of meals with my Nana. The night felt more like an event than just a meal. Chef Joey Baldini understands the soul of the Italian food experience.

There is no greater compliment that I can bestow on Zeppoli than to say you’d make my Nana proud.

Here's how the perfect score breaks down:

La Viola: Where You End Up with More Pasta After the Bill Arrives

I went to La Viola recently to try one pasta and instead ate three. Here's how.

A year ago my father called me about a pasta so delicious that he thought about ordering another.

While he went against his gluttonous instincts, I did not, but only because he accidentally told me the wrong thing earlier that night - the orrechiette alla romano instead of the fusilli estiva.

Newest obsession: Fusilli estiva at La Viola

By the time he discovered the error and texted me an emphatic and expletive-ridden correction, I had finished an espresso and was about to pay the bill. (The hostess actually came to take the bill twice!) But the fusilli was the sole reason we came to La Viola, so I had no choice but to order a second entree. It also didn't hurt that the average orrechiete made me wish for a more memorable pasta.

The homemade fusilli with cannellini beans, sausage and white onions in an olive oil sauce is one of the best pasta dishes we've had on the Nana Test. I could have ordered a fourth dish to go, ha!

How did the rest of the meal fare in The Nana Test?

Fiorino: A Hidden Gem in East Falls

East Falls seems to be the Philly neighborhood without a food identity yet, at least in our minds. It's stuck between Center City and Manayunk without the panache of either.

Lamb shank special at Fiorino

We're not familiar with any food options in East Falls beyond In Riva (which we like) and Johnny Manana’s - not for the food but the central location and colorful exterior. Major Wing Lee Grocery Market has received notoriety for its $3 hoagies. Anyone suggest we go there for Hoagie Quest?

It's against this backdrop that we visited Fiorino and discovered a top contender in The Nana Test. We probably never would have even heard of Fiorino if a friend had not moved in down the street.

Franco Faggi is the owner and chef of Fiorino, which specializes in the cuisine of Romagna, his native homeland in Italy. Franco also offers FREE cooking classes (minus $10 for the supplies). Wow. We'll be looking to check that out.

Let's get to The Nana Test.

Little Nonna's vs. The Nana Test

It's a food fight for the ages - Little Nonna’s vs. the Nana Test.

In case you live under a food rock, Little Nonna's is the new, highly-anticipated Italian restaurant from Marcie Turney and Valerie Safran, proprietors of several brilliant places along 13th St. such as Barbuzzo and Jamonera.

Romantic outdoor seating behind Little Nonna's

The restaurant's name and menu are billed as being inspired by the home cooking of an Italian grandmother, "the Nonna." Sound familiar? It should be because it is as if Turney and Safran read our introduction to the Nana Test last October and came up with the marketing for Little Nonna’s. The concepts are just about a perfect match.

Talk about a match made in heaven for the Nana Test. Let’s see how Little Nonna’s fared.

Photos of the Week: Oodles of Noodles

There are a dozen different ways to get your noodle fix in Philadelphia. From traditional Italian pastas to centuries-old hand-drawn Chinese noodles, we wholeheartedly advocate for carb loading on a regular basis when there are so many delicious ways to do it.

Here are some photos and quick notes on some of the best noodles we've had in Philly lately.

(speaking of photos, check out all our pics from The Farmer & The Chef on our Facebook page. Great restaurant/farm pairing event in Wilmington, DE.)

Cold Sesame Noodles from Cheu Noodle Bar. (Washington West) Served with cucumber, seaweed and cilantro for just $10, they are a perfectly cool little dinner when ordered with some BBQ pig tails, pork belly buns or the best thing on the Cheu menu, the broccoli and Vietnamese sausage in peanut sauce. Cheu is also known for it's several ramen options. A trendy and casual little spot, you may have to sit at the bar but it's fun to watch them cook. Good lunch specials, too.

Go with the shaved noodles, they were the best at our table.

Shaved Noodle Soup at Nan Zhou Hand Drawn Noodle House. (Chinatown) Huge menu, dirt cheap, incredible noodle dishes with more than a century of history behind them. You can add a variety of different meats and fishes - beef, chicken, duck, ox tail, shrimp, clams, you name it - or go vegetarian. Great place to go with a group of friends, too. Bring some wine or beer and get there on the earlier side before the crowd. A must-try especially in cooler weather. You will not find noodles like this anywhere else.

Rigatoni in cream vodka sauce, shallots and prosciutto

Rigatoni Locanda at Sotto. (Rittenhouse Square) Tucked neatly in the shadows of the Walnut Street bridge on 24th Street, Sotto is an unassuming little BYOB from the much-respected owner of Radicchio Cafe. It serves traditional Italian pastas, pizzas, apps and entrees. We weren't blown away by the pizza but both our pastas, the Rigatoni and the Spaghetti Matriciana had surprisingly good sauce. If you're in the neighborhood, it's worth a stop in for a low-key, quality and affordable Italian meal.

Melograno Takes The Nana Test

We wrote about Melograno in 2010 and thought it would be fun to do an update by giving the Center City restaurant The Nana Test.

As a reminder, The Nana Test is our unique way to grade Italian BYOBs. It consists of five elements that best describe meals my Italian family shared at my Nana's house while growing up. Each restaurant is graded according to five criteria and given a score between 1 and 5 (5 being the best).

Let’s see how Melograno fared.

Atmosphere: The big front windows are inviting if you get a seat near the entrance and the open kitchen is lovely if you’re in the back. We’ve had loud conversation over the years and no one seemed to notice or care. Importantly, there is never a push to rush the meal, which creates a relaxing atmosphere. Great place to eat out with a group of friends or on a date; reservations are recommended, especially after summer ends.
Score: 4 out of 5

Simplicity: Melograno has an appealing mix of dishes ranging from pasta to meat to fish. While a straight pasta with red sauce is not on the menu, you can find amatriciana and cacio e pepe - two simple dishes - alongside more elegant options like sweet potato ravioli or char-grilled quail. One of our favorites is the Pappardelle Al Ragu di Cinghiale, or wild boar pasta. It’s a simple dish usually done well.
Score: 4 out of 5

Pappardelle Al Ragu di Cinghiale

Giorgio on Pine Leads in The Nana Test

Giorgio on Pine is an Italian BYOB located just off Broad Street on, you guessed it, Pine Street.

This is the first time we've put a restaurant through the Nana Test with a large group of 15 people. [Click for our previous Nana Test reviews.] Did Giorgio’s live up to a true large Italian family experience? Yup.

Atmosphere: Giorgio's is your typical small BYOB with tables close together. Conversation throughout the restaurant was plentiful, relaxed and loud like any Italian meal should be. A highlight of the night was a couple sitting next to us who asked why our group of 15 was there (answer: dinner before a Mask & Wig show). This led to a hilarious exchange about members of each party dating, the pleasures of drinking wine and fond experiences with the laugh-so-hard-you-cry Mask & Wig club.

Any place that enables such a conversation gets a perfect score on the atmosphere portion of the Nana Test. My family would fit in at Giorgio's anytime. 5 out of 5 points

Mr Martino's Trattoria: Like Eating at Home with Nana?

Mr Martino’s Trattoria is a small Italian BYOB located on East Passyunk Ave across from Cantina Los Caballitos. We heard about it from South Philly friends because of its long history of serving simple homemade Italian dishes.

Marc and Maria Farnese are the co-owners with Maria being the sole cook (don't call her a chef!) and Marc the host. A true Italian husband/wife combination that is ideal for The Nana Test.

Atmosphere: Mr Martino’s is casual and intimate. The all-wood interior is like an old time saloon filled with antiques collected by Marc and paintings. It’s both charming and purposefully out of step with today’s modern décor. Early on a Friday night we shared the place with only two other parties, so it is not ideal for larger parties with loud conversation. We heard every creak in the decades-old floors.

Mina Cucina: Suburban Italian BYOB

Mina Cucina Rustica is a tiny BYOB located in a small shopping center in the Spring House/Ambler area of Montgomery County, Pa. Local residents might recognize the Wawa across the street that has been there for more than 20 years.

Exterior photo from Patch.com

We heard about Mina Cucina through my parents who have been many times and known the Bompartito family since my father coached their son in high school. The family also owns A Taste of Italy, a Di Bruno Bros. type store that is quite popular in the area.

Clearly, Mina Cucina was an ideal candidate to put through the paces of The Nana Test.

Win $100 to Ulivo from CityEats.com! Contest ends 10/21

Last weekend, we revealed a new series that will review Italian BYOBs in the Philadelphia area according to the "Nana Test." We already wrote about Ulivo in Queen Village as part of that series and now, thanks to CityEats, our loyal and hungry readers have the chance to win $100 towards your own delicious "Dream Dinner" at Ulivo, too.

It's SO easy. There are 3 ways to win:

1. All existing email subscribers to 22nd & Philly are automatically entered. Yay for you!

2. Anyone else who registers for email updates from 22nd & Philly between now and October 21 will also be entered to win. Sign up right here or at the top right column of your screen.

3. Go to the 22nd & Philly page on Facebook and share this post with all your friends so they can enter, too.

If you sign up for the email AND share this post on Facebook, you'll be in the running twice. Entry deadline is October 21, 2012 at midnight. We'll put all entries into a hat and pick a winner to be announced October 22.

Why is this worthwhile? $100 is a big deal people, and at a BYOB like Ulivo it will go a long way. You'll see in our review that Ulivo is worth the visit. Don't believe us? Our friends at Two Eat Philly loved Ulivo, too. Here is the current seasonal menu on CityEats.com.

A few rules:
1. The $100 has to be spent in one sitting so we recommend going in a party of 3 or more people in order to spend that much. That's the beauty of a BYOB. Your friends will thank you.

2. The winner must make his/her reservation through CityEats.com, a website created in partnership with the Food Network to book reservations and get a sense for the restaurant experience before you even go.

Who wants in?? Start signing up and sharing on Facebook today!

Ulivo is Up First in "The Nana Test"

Bucatini all'Amatriciana

Our recent visit to Italian BYOB Ulivo was good timing, as we just launched a series of reviews according to "The Nana Test" - a set of criteria that compares local Italian restaurant experiences to traditional Italian dinners with the family at grandma's house. Each item is rated on a 5-point scale, with 5 being the best.

Keep in mind that Ulivo's menu changes seasonally, so we had the Fall 2012 menu. If you go another time of year, some things may be different.

Here is how Ulivo fared in The Nana Test:

Introducing The Nana Test: A New Way to Review Italian Restaurants

Some of my all-time favorite meals were at my grandmother’s for home-cooked Italian food. She sets the standard for any Italian meal I eat. Her sauce is just incredible and it is the reason I started licking my plate clean at a young age. Don’t even get me started on her pasta aioli.

Even more important than the actual meal, though, was the environment. Her cooking brought the family together and embedded in us the importance food has in creating positive memories and traditions. They are the foundation of our blog and the prism through which we look at the Philadelphia food scene.

This city and its suburbs are lucky enough to have a long list of cultural restaurants that could remind any of us of our grandmothers' cooking. It’s one reason why a series of posts on Italian restaurants has long been a goal of ours.

The struggle has been to come up with the right way to evaluate them. The perfect idea hit me like a rolling pin to my head while cooking my own pasta the other week: The Nana Test.

The Nana Test consists of five elements that best describe meals my family shared at my Nana's house. We will focus primarily on BYOBs, each graded according to these five criteria and given an overall score between 1 and 5 (5 being the best).

Il Pittore Impresses with Service and Suckling Pig

Famed Philadelphia restaurateur Stephen Starr opened one of his latest endeavors - Il Pittore - last October. It took over the tall, skinny space vacated by Noble American Cookery on 20th & Sansom.

Il Pittore joins top notch Melograno and often-overlooked Porcini as the third Italian restaurant on a short block. If you haven't checked out that area, you're missing out. In addition to the Italian food, Village Whiskey, Vic Sushi, Helium Comedy Club and the Adrienne Theater round it out with excellent burgers, sushi and comedy shows, plus Shake Shack is on its way this summer. Now if only the Roxy movie theater would replace its decrepit old seats...

The food at Il Pittore was very good. The service was phenomenal. The prices were steep.

I'll start with the service because we spent most of the walk home talking about it. Our waiter was very attentive and friendly, and he really knew the wine list. He even offered Bradd a taste of two different wines based on a description of what he liked (this rarely happens, if ever). When I wanted to order another cocktail - the Rye Smash btw is a great choice for spring/summer - all I had to do was turn my head around and another waiter was there in a snap to ask what I needed. Most impressive, when each dish was delivered from the kitchen, whoever brought it (usually not even a waiter) repeated all the ingredients from the menu to remind us of what we were about to eat. How nice! Who really remembers all the details after you order? Great way to re-energize us before each course.

Sandwich Quest: Mix n' Match Your Meatballs at Marabella

I recently set off on a Sandwich Quest to try some new sandwiches including the falafel at Mama’s Vegetarian (review coming) and the lamb gyro at Opa. On my walk to Opa, I passed Marabella Meatball Co. (MMCo.) and as luck would have it they were celebrating their one-year anniversary with a $5 sandwich special. That’s as good a reason as any to change plans and give a meatball sammie a shot.

A Second Look at Craig LaBan's "Best of the Rest"

Craig LaBan's "Best of the Rest" were revealed in today's Inquirer, listing 25 more of his favorite restaurants in several categories. As promised, here's our run down of reviews and thoughts on the places we've visited. Yesterday we tackled his list of favorite BYOBs.

We have to second LaBan that the "stunning diversity and depth" of Philadelphia's dining scene makes our home worthy of being coined a restaurant town, and we'll defend that position to any doubter. There's also a noticeable number of suburban restaurants on his list, perhaps a sign that we need to gas up the car more often and explore. 

Best Distinctive Italian

Love the mural behind Le Virtu's bar

Amis - Loved it, The menu has changed a bit since our two visits but we have full confidence it will still be amazing. Smaller plates enable sharing but do add up on price. It's also a great spot to just swing in for a glass of wine and a bite at the bar.

Le Virtu - In haste I threw Le Virtu into a weekend roundup post in early 2011, but don't let that diminish your impression. Its "Best of Philly" pasta and goat meatball appetizer were delicious. Eating at the bar was a perfectly enjoyable experience when all the tables were full. I want to go back and sit on the patio during summer.

Melograno - Solid Italian BYOB that has never disappointed. They don't take reservations so sometimes there is a wait, but it's worth it, especially for the wild boar ragu.

Best New American Full Service

a.kitchen egg sandwich

a.kitchen - We've only been here for brunch because, despite a rave review from LaBan, literally everyone we know that's eaten dinner there gives it a waivering, "eh, it was ok." Brunch was great for us though, so at least there's that.

Barbuzzo - We went opening week and have been back since, both times to a unique and memorable meal. Smaller plates means more things to try, and sitting at the bar means fast, friendly service (and possibly more elbow room; the dining tables are tight).

Fork - I never wrote about it but visited Fork about a year ago for a birthday. Everything we ate was very good; I recall a seasonal risotto that did approach mouthwatering status. Except for that dish, most entrees are $28 so with appetizers and drinks, a full meal at Fork is an investment.

[Update, I missed this one before] Supper - We've been several times for both dinner and foodie blogger events, and walk away content with a solid meal each time. The Supper Burger is one of Bradd's all-time fav burgers and may be at near the top of my parents' list, too, after a recent visit.

Surprising omission: Sbraga - Despite a few bumps in service (that others complain about too, including LaBan) the culinary adventure of Top Chef Kevin Sbraga's menu is really impressive. Flavors and combinations you've never experienced before, beautiful presentation and just-right portion sizes make the $45 fixe price menu absolutely worth the trip.

Best Updated International
Koo Zee Doo - Hooray! One of our absolute favorites in Philadelphia. We recommend it frequently to people looking for something delicious but different, which Koo Zee Doo's Portuguese dishes consistently deliver. Go on a Friday for the suckling pig special, or else aim for the Picanha steak and baked duck rice on any night.

Kanella - Been once for dinner and sat outside on an uncomfortably hot summer night, so it tainted our experience a little, though I don't recall disliking anything. I do want to get back there asap for both dinner and brunch. The bright white/blue simplistic design reminds me distinctly of a honeymoon day in Santorini.

Best Gastropubs
Khyber Pass Pub - Yes on all accounts re: the bacon grease popcorn. The po-boys haven't totally wow'd us  but the extensive craft beer list and juke box can definitely occupy us for hours.

Shocking omission: McCrossens Tavern - We could not be more thankful to have finally eaten here just a week ago because it simply was delicious. Food-wise, we are quite surprised it missed the LaBan's list. Our review to follow this week. If you can't wait, just go and order clams, short rib and cavatelli if it's on special. Trust us.

Meritage roasted duck breast

Great Restaurants Deserving More Buzz
Meritage - Our thoughts exactly! It's been literally around the corner from us for years but we never felt drawn to go until this Fall. And good thing we did, because the food was really good and menu made me want to come back for more.

Meme - We had such an off-putting experience with the host and service here that we honestly can't even remember what we ate. Granted, that was 3 years ago but we haven't gotten over it enough to go back.

A visit to COOK for Massimo Bruno's Italian Supper Club

COOK has become a bit of a sensation in Philadelphia since its opening in September. We walk by on a regular basis wondering what it's really like inside, and if the price is worth the chance to have an intimate food experience with such big names as Georges Perrier, Michael Solomonov or Sal Vetri (Marc's dad).

Lucky for us, we got to check out COOK through a complimentary invite to a private event hosted by Mavea. Mavea recruited Toronto culinary guru Massimo Bruno to host one of his infamous Italian Supper Clubs in Philly, where he cooks and shares a meal with attendees. Each of his Supper Clubs focuses on one of the 20 regions in Italy. He chose his hometown of Puglia, Italy for this night.

I’ll freely admit I was skeptical about 16-seat COOK, thinking the concept is good in theory but wouldn’t live up to the price (classes range from $65 to $165/person).


However, the opportunity to ask questions and get to know the chef is enlightening. It’s not something we would attend regularly, but if you are planning a special occasion and looking for a unique experience, it is a home run. We highly encourage you to be selective about the event you choose because the host and the topic will make a huge difference. The evening with Massimo could have easily run $100/person, which we would have been ok with paying for an anniversary dinner, birthday or some other special night out.

Night Market: Strada Pasta

Just had the sage and butternut squash lasagna with gorgonzola sauce from Strada Pasta. Wow, really rich flavor and perfect for the season. First really seasonal item I've seen at the Night Market so far tnight.

Not sure I could handle a big plate of it, but food truck portion? Yes please. Nice guy too, said he uses all local ingredients. Craig LaBan must have been to Strada's table right before us, because he tweeted that the squash ravioli was a "sleeper gem."

943, an Argentine/Italian BYO in Philly

Update: We're bummed to report that 943 closed in early 2013. We're hoping chef Pascual lands somewhere awesome soon. We'll be first in line to try it out. 

Long-time readers of 22nd & Philly know we started the blog to share our experiences with the food culture and restaurants in Philadelphia. Our focus on the overall "experience" comes from the belief that memorable meals are defined by more than just food. If you think back to your favorite meals, you are sure to uncover fond recollections about the conversation, people and atmosphere, too.  

This defines our recent visit to 943 in a nutshell.

Several weeks ago we shared tweets with fellow food blogger, phillyfooddude, about going to 943. The exchange led to a visit that lasted more than three hours and who knows how many bottles of wine. It had all the attributes of a great experience, including good company and conversation on top of excellent food.

943 opened earlier this year and is located in the heart of the Italian Market.  Much like one of our other favorite BYOs, Portuguese-inspired Koo Zee Doo, 943 brings a unique food culture to the city with its Argentine/Italian blend.

2nd Annual Best of Philly To-Do List

Philadelphia Magazine releases a "Best of Philly" issue each August, just in time to make its way into my beach bag and onto our to-do/eat/shop list. While we've been to - and agree with - many of this year's picks (Paesano's bolognese for best sandwich? hands down.) there still are dozens of new spots to try.

Here are the top 10 food/drink winners we picked off Philly Mag's ranking for inclusion in our second annual Best of Philly To-Do list. Reviews to come throughout the next year. What's on your list?

Paesano's Sandwich Quest: Jaeatyet?

(important update: the Lasagna Bolognese is now only served at the Italian Market location of Paesano's, 1017 S. 9th St. Something about how the fryer is only needed for this sandwich so they only have one. Rest of the great sandwiches are still served at Girard.)

After reading about the lasagna bolognese sandwich in the Endless Simmer's Best New Sandwich Guide, we knew Paesano's had to be the first stop in our Philly Sandwich Quest.   

It's a shame it took us so long to visit Paesano's. It’s also a shame that Philly’s cheesesteak reputation hides places such as Paesano’s from sandwich and food lovers. People are missing out on a gem in both food and atmosphere. I’m not sure what I enjoyed more - the old school charm with a fellow paesan running the place or the sandwiches.  Paesano’s reminds of the hoagie joints of a time gone by - simple, unpretentious and delicious.