Melograno Takes The Nana Test

We wrote about Melograno in 2010 and thought it would be fun to do an update by giving the Center City restaurant The Nana Test.

As a reminder, The Nana Test is our unique way to grade Italian BYOBs. It consists of five elements that best describe meals my Italian family shared at my Nana's house while growing up. Each restaurant is graded according to five criteria and given a score between 1 and 5 (5 being the best).

Let’s see how Melograno fared.

Atmosphere: The big front windows are inviting if you get a seat near the entrance and the open kitchen is lovely if you’re in the back. We’ve had loud conversation over the years and no one seemed to notice or care. Importantly, there is never a push to rush the meal, which creates a relaxing atmosphere. Great place to eat out with a group of friends or on a date; reservations are recommended, especially after summer ends.
Score: 4 out of 5

Simplicity: Melograno has an appealing mix of dishes ranging from pasta to meat to fish. While a straight pasta with red sauce is not on the menu, you can find amatriciana and cacio e pepe - two simple dishes - alongside more elegant options like sweet potato ravioli or char-grilled quail. One of our favorites is the Pappardelle Al Ragu di Cinghiale, or wild boar pasta. It’s a simple dish usually done well.
Score: 4 out of 5

Pappardelle Al Ragu di Cinghiale

A Second Look at Craig LaBan's "Best of the Rest"

Craig LaBan's "Best of the Rest" were revealed in today's Inquirer, listing 25 more of his favorite restaurants in several categories. As promised, here's our run down of reviews and thoughts on the places we've visited. Yesterday we tackled his list of favorite BYOBs.

We have to second LaBan that the "stunning diversity and depth" of Philadelphia's dining scene makes our home worthy of being coined a restaurant town, and we'll defend that position to any doubter. There's also a noticeable number of suburban restaurants on his list, perhaps a sign that we need to gas up the car more often and explore. 

Best Distinctive Italian

Love the mural behind Le Virtu's bar

Amis - Loved it, The menu has changed a bit since our two visits but we have full confidence it will still be amazing. Smaller plates enable sharing but do add up on price. It's also a great spot to just swing in for a glass of wine and a bite at the bar.

Le Virtu - In haste I threw Le Virtu into a weekend roundup post in early 2011, but don't let that diminish your impression. Its "Best of Philly" pasta and goat meatball appetizer were delicious. Eating at the bar was a perfectly enjoyable experience when all the tables were full. I want to go back and sit on the patio during summer.

Melograno - Solid Italian BYOB that has never disappointed. They don't take reservations so sometimes there is a wait, but it's worth it, especially for the wild boar ragu.

Best New American Full Service

a.kitchen egg sandwich

a.kitchen - We've only been here for brunch because, despite a rave review from LaBan, literally everyone we know that's eaten dinner there gives it a waivering, "eh, it was ok." Brunch was great for us though, so at least there's that.

Barbuzzo - We went opening week and have been back since, both times to a unique and memorable meal. Smaller plates means more things to try, and sitting at the bar means fast, friendly service (and possibly more elbow room; the dining tables are tight).

Fork - I never wrote about it but visited Fork about a year ago for a birthday. Everything we ate was very good; I recall a seasonal risotto that did approach mouthwatering status. Except for that dish, most entrees are $28 so with appetizers and drinks, a full meal at Fork is an investment.

[Update, I missed this one before] Supper - We've been several times for both dinner and foodie blogger events, and walk away content with a solid meal each time. The Supper Burger is one of Bradd's all-time fav burgers and may be at near the top of my parents' list, too, after a recent visit.

Surprising omission: Sbraga - Despite a few bumps in service (that others complain about too, including LaBan) the culinary adventure of Top Chef Kevin Sbraga's menu is really impressive. Flavors and combinations you've never experienced before, beautiful presentation and just-right portion sizes make the $45 fixe price menu absolutely worth the trip.

Best Updated International
Koo Zee Doo - Hooray! One of our absolute favorites in Philadelphia. We recommend it frequently to people looking for something delicious but different, which Koo Zee Doo's Portuguese dishes consistently deliver. Go on a Friday for the suckling pig special, or else aim for the Picanha steak and baked duck rice on any night.

Kanella - Been once for dinner and sat outside on an uncomfortably hot summer night, so it tainted our experience a little, though I don't recall disliking anything. I do want to get back there asap for both dinner and brunch. The bright white/blue simplistic design reminds me distinctly of a honeymoon day in Santorini.

Best Gastropubs
Khyber Pass Pub - Yes on all accounts re: the bacon grease popcorn. The po-boys haven't totally wow'd us  but the extensive craft beer list and juke box can definitely occupy us for hours.

Shocking omission: McCrossens Tavern - We could not be more thankful to have finally eaten here just a week ago because it simply was delicious. Food-wise, we are quite surprised it missed the LaBan's list. Our review to follow this week. If you can't wait, just go and order clams, short rib and cavatelli if it's on special. Trust us.

Meritage roasted duck breast

Great Restaurants Deserving More Buzz
Meritage - Our thoughts exactly! It's been literally around the corner from us for years but we never felt drawn to go until this Fall. And good thing we did, because the food was really good and menu made me want to come back for more.

Meme - We had such an off-putting experience with the host and service here that we honestly can't even remember what we ate. Granted, that was 3 years ago but we haven't gotten over it enough to go back.

Melograno BYOB

Last night I went to Melograno with two friends who bought a house in the 'burbs and are moving out of Center City next weekend. It turned out to be a great choice for a bittersweet dinner party (of three people, plus two bottles of wine).

Bradd and I went to the BYOB last summer for our first anniversary but hadn't been back since. The menu looked different to me - I recall it being dimensionally smaller and with more pages, but I don't know if that translated to more options. I recognized what I ate last time right away, mainly because the girl at the table next to us had the same thing and, man, did it smell good. It's called Pappardelle Al Ragu di Cinghiale, or "braised wild boar bolognese made with fresh tomatoes & rosemary finished with Parmigiano." One of my dinner mates opted for it last night but I decided to try their Pappardelle Alle Olive instead, "Sauteéd jumbo shrimp & Sea scallops cooked in a light tomato sauce with black & green olives." I'm not a fan of olives so thankfully there were only a couple and I couldn't tell if they really did anything to the flavor. Really, it was kind of like pasta (pappardelle, which are long, wide, flat noodles that are a little thick and give you a much different feel than eating regular pasta) with shrimp, scallops and a red sauce. It was definitely good. But what I had last time was better.

Note to self and others: when you see "wild boar ragu" just get it. It's going to be awesome. Everywhere we've had it, like Osteria, it never fails to impress. I was a little jealous watching my friend eat it. Both options are $17, as are their other pasta dishes, so reasonable for a more upscale BYOB. Melograno's meat/fish entrees are all priced in the $20's. Everyone seemed pleased with their meals but no one particularly raved about their food. Maybe we were just too consumed in conversation, though, or in polishing off two bottles of wine between one light weight and two tired souls determined to get drunk (I'm not the lightweight).

What really made this Melograno visit great, however, was the fact that they never chased us out. We got there at 7pm on a Friday night and were seated right by the window immediately. The service was fine, not rushed at all, and 3 1/2 hours later we were still sitting there. Now, in the past I've always seen people waiting outside for tables and Melograno packed inside. For whatever reason last night it was never 100% full and no one seemed to blink at the fact that we weren't moving. And neither were a lot of the tables around us. I wish more places were like that. I get the fact that you need new patrons to make money, but I also need a place to finish my wine and talk with my friends before they move [gasp!] 12 miles away (versus 9 blocks today).

Melograno is a solid Italian BYOB - not the best, nowhere near the worst - and a great spot for anything from a romantic dinner-for-two to an outing with friends.