Four Things to Order at The Fat Ham and One to Skip

Oyster Slider

Kevin Sbraga first gained acclaim as a Top Chef winner and then for his namesake restaurant Sbraga, a 2011 Scarpetta Award honoree for best new restaurant.

Now Chef Sbraga has expanded with a more low key space called the The Fat Ham, which is focused on southern country cooking and traditions.

We loved the concept and enjoyed the food just as much. Here are four things you should order at The Fat Ham.

1. The Fat Apple cocktail. We recognized the bartender from his days at Pub & Kitchen. He’s the really tall guy, super friendly and knows his drinks. We took his recommendation for The Fat Apple - great, simple, whiskey drink. The kind you could have five of on a nice day. The Fat Ham also serves its own twist on the Moscow Mule in those famous copper mugs. (side note: I've had Moscow Mules at two other local bars since not served in the copper mug and it just isn't the same.)

2. Southern Hummus. If there was a “hummus” to give Zahav a run for its money this would be it. Mixing boiled peanuts with the traditional chickpeas gave it just enough distinction and the grilled bread served with it was excellent. You’ll want to lick the wooden bowl clean!

3. Oyster Sliders. These giant oysters were perfectly fried into a crunchy bite, while the coleslaw and gribiche was a tasty condiment. The real kicker, though, was the yeast roll – fluffy, buttery and quite simply perfect. Order one per person and see the photos below for other good apps/sides.

4. Hot Chicken. "Hot" in this case means to the touch and more significantly to taste. You’ll get a minor forehead sweat but also just enough sweetness to keep you diving back in for more, and taking advantage of the white bread, house-made ranch and pickles underneath. Just like the oysters, the chicken is perfectly fried. This version certainly rivals Resurrection and Federal Donuts. I’d love to see Fed Nuts come up with a spicy take like this one. Loved it. At $13 it’s an above average deal.

Hot Chicken!

One disappointment was the chocolate chip cookie skillet. From the sound of it (a hot skillet full of just-baked cookie dough) we thought this was going to be another highlight. The result tasted fine but was thinner and harder than expectations. Perhaps another scoop of ice cream and softer dough would have done the trick.

The Fat Ham is located near WXPN and World Cafe Live on Walnut Street, just before the heart of UPenn's campus in University City. Keep in mind that the space is uber small so try to get a reservation or go as a pair and sneak a spot at the bar. We’d advise against a big dinner party, as we saw one group waiting a good bit to get seated. It just doesn't have the volume seats needed to turnover quickly enough for a large group.

Have you been to The Fat Ham? What would you recommend?

Grilled Trout w/ brussels sprouts, pecan butter

Baked macaroni & cheese with BBQ potato chip crust

Hummus in a wooden bowl

Chocolate chip cookie skillet

A Second Look at Craig LaBan's "Best of the Rest"

Craig LaBan's "Best of the Rest" were revealed in today's Inquirer, listing 25 more of his favorite restaurants in several categories. As promised, here's our run down of reviews and thoughts on the places we've visited. Yesterday we tackled his list of favorite BYOBs.

We have to second LaBan that the "stunning diversity and depth" of Philadelphia's dining scene makes our home worthy of being coined a restaurant town, and we'll defend that position to any doubter. There's also a noticeable number of suburban restaurants on his list, perhaps a sign that we need to gas up the car more often and explore. 

Best Distinctive Italian

Love the mural behind Le Virtu's bar

Amis - Loved it, The menu has changed a bit since our two visits but we have full confidence it will still be amazing. Smaller plates enable sharing but do add up on price. It's also a great spot to just swing in for a glass of wine and a bite at the bar.

Le Virtu - In haste I threw Le Virtu into a weekend roundup post in early 2011, but don't let that diminish your impression. Its "Best of Philly" pasta and goat meatball appetizer were delicious. Eating at the bar was a perfectly enjoyable experience when all the tables were full. I want to go back and sit on the patio during summer.

Melograno - Solid Italian BYOB that has never disappointed. They don't take reservations so sometimes there is a wait, but it's worth it, especially for the wild boar ragu.

Best New American Full Service

a.kitchen egg sandwich

a.kitchen - We've only been here for brunch because, despite a rave review from LaBan, literally everyone we know that's eaten dinner there gives it a waivering, "eh, it was ok." Brunch was great for us though, so at least there's that.

Barbuzzo - We went opening week and have been back since, both times to a unique and memorable meal. Smaller plates means more things to try, and sitting at the bar means fast, friendly service (and possibly more elbow room; the dining tables are tight).

Fork - I never wrote about it but visited Fork about a year ago for a birthday. Everything we ate was very good; I recall a seasonal risotto that did approach mouthwatering status. Except for that dish, most entrees are $28 so with appetizers and drinks, a full meal at Fork is an investment.

[Update, I missed this one before] Supper - We've been several times for both dinner and foodie blogger events, and walk away content with a solid meal each time. The Supper Burger is one of Bradd's all-time fav burgers and may be at near the top of my parents' list, too, after a recent visit.

Surprising omission: Sbraga - Despite a few bumps in service (that others complain about too, including LaBan) the culinary adventure of Top Chef Kevin Sbraga's menu is really impressive. Flavors and combinations you've never experienced before, beautiful presentation and just-right portion sizes make the $45 fixe price menu absolutely worth the trip.

Best Updated International
Koo Zee Doo - Hooray! One of our absolute favorites in Philadelphia. We recommend it frequently to people looking for something delicious but different, which Koo Zee Doo's Portuguese dishes consistently deliver. Go on a Friday for the suckling pig special, or else aim for the Picanha steak and baked duck rice on any night.

Kanella - Been once for dinner and sat outside on an uncomfortably hot summer night, so it tainted our experience a little, though I don't recall disliking anything. I do want to get back there asap for both dinner and brunch. The bright white/blue simplistic design reminds me distinctly of a honeymoon day in Santorini.

Best Gastropubs
Khyber Pass Pub - Yes on all accounts re: the bacon grease popcorn. The po-boys haven't totally wow'd us  but the extensive craft beer list and juke box can definitely occupy us for hours.

Shocking omission: McCrossens Tavern - We could not be more thankful to have finally eaten here just a week ago because it simply was delicious. Food-wise, we are quite surprised it missed the LaBan's list. Our review to follow this week. If you can't wait, just go and order clams, short rib and cavatelli if it's on special. Trust us.

Meritage roasted duck breast

Great Restaurants Deserving More Buzz
Meritage - Our thoughts exactly! It's been literally around the corner from us for years but we never felt drawn to go until this Fall. And good thing we did, because the food was really good and menu made me want to come back for more.

Meme - We had such an off-putting experience with the host and service here that we honestly can't even remember what we ate. Granted, that was 3 years ago but we haven't gotten over it enough to go back.

The 2011 22nd & Philly Scarpetta Awards

Welcome everyone to the first-ever 22nd & Philly Scarpetta Awards!

Why the Scarpettas? On the About 22nd & Philly page, we detail why we started this blog and how we define a good food experience: "at the end of the day, if Bradd cleans his plate with a piece of bread, you know it was a good meal." Little did we know there is an Italian phrase for using bread to clean your plate, Fare La Scarpetta. We learned about the word from Anthony Bourdain's show, The Layover, when he visited Rome.

What better way to characterize our own "Best Of" awards for Philadelphia?

The Scarpettas are based on the eateries we visited in the past year, food quests, local events, readers and friends we’ve met, among other considerations. It's our way of pointing out some of our favorite - and least favorite - discoveries within local food scene during 2011. Either our plates were clean, or something was left to be desired.

And the 2011 Scarpettas go to...

Sbraga lives up to Top Chef acclaim

Chef Kevin Sbraga just opened his first restaurant Sbraga last weekend following a summer of anticipation among the Top Chef winner's fans and the Philly food community. We actually never watched that season of the reality show, but grabbed one of the last available seats on Open Table this past Friday night to see what the buzz was all about. It turned out to be one heck of a good meal.

Sbraga requires all seated patrons to choose from a $45/person prix fixe menu - four courses with six options each. First course appetizers, second fish, third meat, fourth dessert.  

Lamb Belly  (Jason Varney/Sbraga)

The same items are available a la carte to customers sitting at the traditional bar and the kitchen bar. We are big fans of watching chefs cook from a kitchen bar, but glad we sat down for the four course dinner at Sbraga. Unless you really don't want dessert, we agreed that diners should just go for the full experience. The portions are small, so getting just an appetizer and an entree may leave you hungry an hour later. We did the math and ordering our same four individual items works out just under $45 for me, and just over $45 for Bradd, anyway.

The winning dishes for us were the foie gras soup and the lamb belly with broccoli and sesame granola. To make the lamb belly, Sbraga alternates lamb breast with fat in thin layers, cooked to perfection and served with the crunchy granola on top. It results in a striking combination of flavors and textures. Sort of like pork belly, but meatier and possibly more gratifying.

I wish we asked what goes into the foie gras soup broth because it was just divine. Distinct from any flavor we've had before. Literally stops you mid-slurp to ponder about how unique it is.